Stanage VS Challenge

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Attempted on 18th May 2024

A little background, the VS challenge is a climbing challenge of 36 VS routes from one side of Stanage to the other, about 4km long. The 36 routes are all from the 1989 Stanage guidebook. My friend and me are both around E2 climbers, my friend had done most of the VS’s before which proved a massive bonus. I on the other hand had done bout 8 of the routes before! Should have recce’d more!

We started climbing at about 7:30 at the far North of Stanange. We had a small rack of cams, wires, and 4 quickdraws. Worked out well. We started out wearing crack gloves and had them on all day, life-saving shit right there! The first climb was Crab Crawl Arete, an easy start.

In the end, we managed to do 31, ran out of daylight, plus energy, strength, and the will to live! I like the sunshine, but not when you’re trying to do a challenge.

The climbs we got done

  • Crab Crawl Arete – Easy climbing
  • First Sister – Easy CLimbing
  • Cosmic Crack – Easy Climbing
  • Inaccessible Crack – Easy climbing and very nice
  • High Neb Buttress – Easy climbing and very nice
  • Titanic – Easy climbing and very nice
  • Central Buttress – Easy Climbing
  • Counts Crack – This is a very nice crack climb, worth doing
  • Fern Crack – This was bird banned, replaced with Sauls Arete
  • Wall End Slab – This was bird banned, replaced with Wall End Flake Crack, lovely climb
  • Fairy Steps – Easy Climbing
  • Seesaw – Easy Climbing
  • Valhalla – Easy climbing and very nice
  • Pegasus Wall – Easy climbing and very nice
  • Paradise Wall – Easy climbing and very nice
  • Wall Buttres – This is a HVS, it’s easy when you know how, but awkward!
  • Cleft Wing – Go practice this one, just powerful moves!
  • Cleft Wing Super Direct – Go practice this one, just powerful moves!
  • The Punk – This is a lovely hand traverse
  • The Nose – Lovely strange VS climbing, every hold is a jug
  • Step-ladder Crack – Worth a practice, knowing the moves makes this easy
  • Hell Crack – Its fucking hell, not much else to say
  • The Louisiana Rib – Classic Stanage climbing, very nice
  • Mississippi Buttress Direct – Again, a great classic
  • Via Roof Route – This is a bit brutal for a VS challenge, thrutchy
  • Twin Chimmneys Buttress – Nice climbing
  • Robin Hoods Cave Innominate – one move at the bottom, the rest is lovely
  • Rubber Band – Nice traverse
  • Ellis’s Eliminate – Always a nice climb
  • Inverted V – Good climbing, easy
  • Narrow Buttress – Good climbing, easy

We only had 5 easy ones left, Hargreaves Original, Centarl Trinity, Via Media, Gargoyle Buttress, and Heather Wall.

I’m not sure what we could have changed, start climbing earlier for sure, hope that it’s cloudy. But just saving 2-4 mins on each climb is an extra 1-2 hours. Me knowing more of the routes instead of on-sighting would have helped. It meant I was trying to read the route before the climb and on the climb, takes longer.

Good day out though, definitely worth a go, and 31 climbs in a day from one side of Stanage to the other is still a big day without completing the challenge. I’ll have another crack next year.

If anyone is fancying a go, reccy the routes and the downclimbs back to the routes, you’ll save time!

Scotland 2022

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Winter Climbing on the Ben

2 trips of winter climbing have been done this year! After missing, a couple of years from Covid had to get back to do some climbing!

The first trip was over a weekend in January, managed to squeeze in 3 routes in 2 days, the snow line was high, and not much ice. Enough Ice to make a couple of belays but no ice climbing routes.

Gully Number 3 Central buttress

On the first trip, we did Gully Number 3 Central Buttress, Gully Number 2, and Gully Number 4.

The second trip was 8 days! 5 days staying in Fort William and 3 days in the CIC hut at the bottom of the North Face. The hut is a prime location, saving a 2-hour walk in, nice lay-ins, early back! I’d say luxury, but it has no showers, 2 toilets, and sleeps around 28 people in 2 giant bunk beds! Worth it though!!

Started the week with Jake, we got to do Central Gully Right-Hand, North-East Buttress, and Vanishing Gully. All 3* top climbs, North-East Buttress is an epic day route, Vanishing Gully is a superb ice climb going at grade V. We got a bit of bad weather so venture to a dry tooling crag and then some indoor climbing.

I then joined the Peak Climbing Club in the CIC hut and got on Raeburn’s Easy Route & Ledge Route. Both 3* grade II climbs, I was guiding Lucy from the climbing club who didn’t have much experience so these routes are perfect. I managed to sneak in a couple of easy gully solos though on the Douglas gap.

The weather can only be described as outstanding! blue skies and sunshine! two rare things in Scotland, even rarer in winter on the Ben!

Already looking at booking for 2023, and hoping the snow sticks around for a winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge at end of April!

The next trip is to Wales in a couple of weeks’ time! looking forward to that one.

Winter Routes ticket off on Ben Nevis for 2022

  • Number 3 Gully Buttress (direct finish) – Grade IV 5
  • Number 3 Gully – Grade I
  • Number 4 Gully – Grade I
  • Number 2 Gully – Grade II
  • Centarl Gully Right-Hand – Grade IV 4
  • North East Buttress – Grade IV 5
  • Vanishing Gully – Grade V 5
  • Douglas Gap West Gully – Grade I
  • Douglas Gap East Gully – Grade I
  • Raeburns Easy Route – Grade II
  • Ledge Route – Grade II

Scottish Mountaineering

Spot of Winter Mountaineering

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Not sure why i haven’t updated this sooner! It’s not like i haven’t had the time lately!

Well this post is from my trip in February to do some Winter Mountaineering around Ben Nevis. I based myself in Fort William, which is a great place to stay due to the location, but mainly the Wood-fire Pizzas and craft beer bar!

I managed to cram in 4 routes in 4 days, plus a summit of Ben Nevis to the trig point. A lot of the winter climbing routes take like 6-8 hours depending on conditions, so knocking out more than one route in a day is sometimes hard. Unless you’re up early and back late!

We ticked off the routes

  • Castle Ridge – Grade III** – Ben Nevis
  • Curved Ridge – Grade II*** – Buachaille Etive Mor
  • Ledge Route – Grade II*** – Ben Nevis
  • Spider Rib – Grade II – Aonach Mor

From Ledge Route we continued on and walked to the summit of Ben Nevis. It was pretty much a white out, with very low visibility! which as always makes it more epic 😉

January’s training log

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So after a slack Nov/Dec regarding with the run training, i thought i’d better actually start seriously in Jan. Building up the milage and the elevation. My first real event isn’t until June, but they all have quite a bit of elevation in them. So starting in January would give me a good kick on for the rest of the year. I’ve also tried to maintain my strength and conditioning work at the gym (been trying to get at least twice a week), along with still being able to climb a few times a week.

So i’ve started slowly and built up to about 25miles a week. I haven’t started any actual hill training yet, so the elevation for the week is just whats included in the normal runs.

I’m building up slowly as i have the time to do this before any serious races, and because i don’t want to get injured or worn out!

I had a fell race in January, which was the Tigger Tor. It was 16km with around 500m elevation, i recce’d this run twice also as its a non marked course, but you have to hit all the checkpoints. I also changed running clubs from a triathlon club to a fell running club. So i’m now part of the Dark Peak Fell Runners.

So for Feb, i have another fell race on the 8th, this is around 28km, so will be the longest i’ve run for a while! with a few few hills thrown in. I’m hoping to get around 30miles in per week from now on, for most of Feb. I have booked in a winter climbing break from 22nd to 27th Feb, so i’ll use these days as run recovery!

I happy with my progress so far, no aches or pains which is good! Looking forward to see how feb goes. I’ll keep up the strength training of squats, lunges, core etc. And the climbing is amazing for the core work!

Morocco and Hiking the Atlas mountains

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M’Goun Massif

Over the Christmas period and leading up to the New Year, a few of us decided to head out to Morocco and trek around the Atlas Mountains. The M’Goun Massif part. This is about a 5 hour drive from Marrakesh.

We arrived in Marrakesh on Christmas Eve. Spent the day wondering around getting everything ready for the next few days. We basically had time for a quick walk around and a pizza. Morocco is a fairly wealthy African country, but it is still very different from England, or any country in the ‘1st’ world! The markets are an amazing place to wonder around.

We traveled to where the trekking would start on Christmas day, about a 5 hour drive. We stopped off in a town and had a Tagine, a traditional Moroccan dish.

Every night we stopped in a gite, walking from one to another. All the gites and villages were amazing in there own way. There are easy to navigate in between and cheap to stay, you can book most of them online, or just turn up!

We did seven days of walking through the mountains, hills and villages! the maximum elevation we got to was around 3,000m (about 9,800ft). We wanted to go to the summit of M’Goun but the snow and ridge pass was too bad.

There was a lot of gear to take for hiking around for 4 days in Morocco. It was pretty warm through the days, and it dropped cold at night! We hiked through snowy conditions and through dessert areas. So we had to pack for a few different environments!

The above is pretty much all i packed for the trip!

It was an amazing experience, and i would definitely go back to do something similar! Its pretty surreal place to go when you come from England. The mountain ranges and villages are amazing!

Now its back to training for the races! Although i do have 2 winter climbing trips booked in over Feb & March!!

Training & Practice Pack

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The trainings been a bit slack recently, but i kind of resigned myself to this and decided to start ‘proper’ training in January. I need to work out a plan for this. Until then i’m kind of keeping my fitness by doing a few runs a week of normal distances (like 10km), bit of swimming, gym work and climbing.

Currently my first run is in May, trail marathons back to back, on Saturday one Sunday. I feel i can ease into my training a little as i have time until the ultras at the end of the year.

So i need to create a plan for my running along with the strength and conditioning for this. Along with a training plan for climbing to reach my goals for this too!

I went for a run on Sunday, this was probably one of the longest runs i’ve done for a while, pretty flat and pretty steady. Felt brilliant doing too, bit sore on the calf muscles the day after though!

On the 24th December i fly out to Morocco to trek up to M’Goun. a 4,100m peak in the Atlas mountains. So last weekend i did a practice pack for the gear i’ll be trekking up with. Things i need to hand, the sleeping bag, spare clothes etc. are carried by the mules!

The main bulk of this is down jacket, waterproofs, crampons, camera and the rest being spare hats, water, first aid, etc.

  • There is an Alpkit 40l bag
  • DMM Cirque Ice Axe
  • Grivel G12 crampons
  • North Face & Alpkit gloves (5 pairs for varying degrees of weather)
  • Paramo Velez Evolution Hybrid Smock (waterproof)
  • Arc’teryx Cerium LT
  • Couple of buffs & Hats
  • Montane Waterproof trousers

I now need to practice pack with all my other gear and my food & snacks!! I’ll have a go at this, this weekend! Maybe a bit late if i need anything as its the last weekend before i go and the weekend before Christmas!

run, climbs, adventures update!

An update of the things i’ve done and should have blogged about!

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Been a slack year on the blogging front! Lets start with what didn’t happen.

So i had to drop out of a few races due to injury, which is annoying, but shit happens. I thought it was better to think about the positives of this and not get too annoyed at not being able to run or train. I couldn’t train at all for about a month, from there i had to build up from around 5km onwards!

I completed the Hardmoors 55, which i was super happy at. But i missed the Lakeland Trails 50km and the main race i wanted to do which was the Dales Way Ultra. 86miles from Windermere to Otley.

But the time off enabled me to climb more and have more outdoor adventures in the Lake District, Snowdonia and the Scottish Highlands. I managed to complete about 60 more Wainwrights, a few mountains in Wales and few Munros in Scotland. So a lot more hiking!

I haven’t really started back with the running, i’ve been doing between 10-20miles a week. Which i know is quite a bit, but not enough for what i want to do

Next Years Races are already booked.

  • May the 4th Weekend (2 trail marathons over 2 days)
  • Scafell Sky Race (42km)
  • Lakeland 5 Passes (32miles)
  • Pinnacle Ridge Extreme (28km)
  • Lakes in a Day (80km)
  • Montane Cheviot Goat (88km)

Year of climbing!

So, with being no running i started climbing again. So my year in climbing has been very successful i would say! I managed to get quite a bit of indoor lead climbing and boulder in when the weathers been bad, but i managed to get a fair few days out on the crag’s.

I logged my outdoor climbs on https://www.ukclimbing.com/user/profile.php?id=263397 This lists all the outdoor climbs and scrambles i’ve done. It also lists my best onsight climbs, which currently stand at Indoor Lead 6c+, outdoor Bouldering f6b+ and trad is HVS.

All together its about 55 climbs and a couple of scrambles in 2019. Not bad to say the first time i hit the outdoors was 15th June. I have a couple of winter climbing/mountaineering trips booked in for Feb & March next year.

My targets for next year is to lead a trad E1, i have a few on my wish list, so fingers crossed. And i’m wanting to get an indoor 7a lead. I’m not concentrating too much on the indoor stuff though!

Some pics from climbing on the Crags, some pics are of Philippa Hill, who i said i mention to make famous!

Trips and Training

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After the Hardmoors i had a week off and felt good for it. The first run i did was a steady 10miles down the Pennine Way, taking in Kinder Falls and back. The legs felt good, bit tired towards the end. Last 2 miles was a push but it was downhill and on nice flagged moors.

From there i had a trip into the Lake District planned. This was part of the new Trig Ring unveiling on top of Blencathra. And it was also a chance to meet a few people off of Instagram. So there is a Whatsapps group that is full of people off Instagram that are into the same kind of stuff, hiking, running, climbing, anything outdoors really. On the Whatsapp group everyone plans trips and meet ups, kinda cool. Using social media to actually be social!

So my plan for the Lakes was get up there early Saturday morning. Go for a 20km run in the fells, then a spot of bouldering. Sleep in the YHA then on Sunday meet up and head up Blencathra.

The run was pretty good. Started just outside Keswick, up Walla Crag onto Bleaberry Fell, High Seat and High Tove. Obviously  bagging a few Wainwrights along the way! The run from Bleaberry Fell, High Seat and High Tove was pretty much a big fest, and made for some slow running and wet legs!

But i got 20km in, with 644m (2178ft) of elevation, in 2hours 30mins. So considering the bogs and wet lumpy ground i was pretty pleased.

The Sunday was all about Blencathra, we headed up to the top around 8:30. With the unveiling happening around 11:00. The planned routes were up Halls Fell Ridge and back down Sharp Edge. These are two awesome routes for scrambling. And i will defiantly be back up in the winter with crampons and ice axe in tow.  If anyone is heading up Blencathra, take in these two routes.

At the top for the unveiling was Stephen Birkinshaw, he wrote the book ‘There is No Map in Hell’ about his running journey taking in all the Wainwrights in 6days and 13hours. He’s still the current record holder, so i took the book up and got him to sign it!

After that i’ve had a couple of local small races, one being the first Trunce Race and the first Spencers Dash. This weekend i also volunteered for the inaugural Pennine Bridleway 57km. I was one of the race sweepers, it was a really nice day and great route. I did about 30 miles of sweeping, but i started getting a twinge in my groin so i got a lift back while the other sweeper, John, carried on the last 5 miles. So in effect i DNF as a sweeper 🙂 The race was along the Pennine Bridleway through the Peak District, mainly along old railway lines, so it was a pretty flat course.

Next up is the Great Lakeland 3 Day event! Beginning of May, bag myself some more Wainwrights! Although i need to get back into a training routine and sort my diet out. They have both been a bit lax recently!

1 Ultra down

1st Ultra run of the year!

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So…… this Saturday was me returning to the Hardmoors 55. I was tempted to write a post before hand, but i also didn’t really want to tempt fate!

After Christmas and New Year in Oz, i really was doubting i could do this. I did a Trail Marathon at the beginning of December, and had basically not really trained much from then till after i cam back from Oz. I had doubts that 2 months of training was going to be enough, i felt that after the holiday maybe my fitness had fallen away somewhat. I’m guessing everyone feels the same after two weeks of no real training. Anyway i knuckled down and got on with the training.

As the race approached i kind of realised i was plenty fit enough to get it done, it was a more a matter of the mental shit! I kind of resigned myself to the fact that in a race of 50 odd miles that i will want to quit, there will be really bad times, but there will also be really good times. And that if i did want to quit, i just had to make sure that the points i want to quit at, are the points in the race that are pretty much unquitable (made a word up too)! I mean i can’t quit in race 10mile from a checkpoint in the middle of the North Yorkshire moors, and even if i did, i would still have to get my arse to the checkpoint to quit! So as long as i left the checkpoints, quitting wasn’t an option.

I told myself my target was to finish, and that if i wanted a good time then i would have to go back another year. This year was just about getting it done. I had a few points i wanted to reach at certain times, but that was more just for fun. The few targets i did have were i wanted to hit Kildale at around 2hours. This was around 1,600ft of elevation and 10miles. Managed it in around 2hours 20minutes (this included queueing for gates). I also wanted to hit 20miles in sub 5 hours. This was around 3,500ft of elevation, i managed this 4hours 40minutes. So i was more than happy with. I knew that after 30miles most of the elevation was done, which was a huge boost. And at mile 37 just about all the elevation was over, and it was down hill from there! So at mile 37 i’d pretty much done all the 9,500ft of elevation.

Screenshot 2019-03-18 at 18.23.08

Its amazing that at mile 31 my thoughts were i only have 20miles left now! it’s a weird thought to have, when most people wouldn’t dream of doing 20 miles anyway. Let alone thinking ‘thats all thats left, easy doable’!

Now, its hard to describe the weather conditions! for 12 hours it was constant rain, with sleet thrown in. On top of this was constant winds of 40-50mph. Add in the fact this is on the North Yorkshire moors, there is no shelter, no trees, walls or buildings sheltering you! Running into the wind is hard! I think about 500 people started the race and 300 finished it. The weather made it a very tough race, very harsh conditions. The weather plays a part in ruining you mentally, it’s hard enough to run 55miles up and down hills, but when you’re wet, uncomfortable, cold and being battered by wind it does play with your head as to why am i doing this! On the day it seemed so stupid as to why i would have signed up to the event especially after the storms and snow of last year! But the days after the race, i’m kind of only remembering it as an awesome thing, and i’m very proud i did it and completed it.

Whether i’ll be running ultras in winter months again is yet to be seen 😉

 

Helvellyn

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This weekend i traveled to the Lake District and stopped over for a few nights. I stopped over in Windermere, but didn’t really get into Windermere this time as the main reason for going up was to go up Helvellyn via Swirral Edge. This was the first chance for a while i could get the crampons on and ice axe out.

I don’t think i could have wished for a more perfect day, the snow was amazing, the sky was clear with blue skies and the sun shining. I hit one patch of cloud just as i reached the summit, but this soon passed. And to be honest it made it a little more cooler to reach the top and be engulfed by cloud!

The sun then came back out and i had a bit of food on the top, there was barely any wind. There was the odd gust, which dropped the temperatures down to around -13c, the temperature out of the wind was about -5c. But this didn’t feel bad at all, bit bad on the hands when eating a sandwich. I actually took my coat off and just had a base-layer, t-shirt and an Arc’teryx hoodie on.

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It was an awesome day out, and on the way back down i made a detour to Catstye Cam. I think it took me about 5 hours, 16km and about 900m of elevation. The weather defiantly made the day, it a couple of weeks i’ll be going back to the Lakes to go up Skiddaw and blencathra. Hoping the snow is still there for some epic adventures.

I would defiantly recommend taking a visit to Helvellyn, whether this is in the winter or summer. It’s an easy hike from Ullswater, about 4miles there and back (14km). And theres a few pubs in Ullswater to grab a beer when you’ve done.

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